The History and Development of the GIA Scale of Gemstone Clarity: Loupes, Inclusions, Magnification, and More

You've heard the term VVS and internally flawless, but what does it mean for you as a consumer? Shopping for clarity in a gemstone purchase is just as important as cut, color, and carat weight. Clarity is something we obsess over here at Palm Beach Heirlooms, and genuinely wish more jewelers made it a priority when crafting pieces. Here's a quick review of how the scales were developed and why you should purchase an internally flawless gemstone.

The GIA, or Gemological Institute of America, is responsible for the Four C’s of gemstone grading which are color, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The GIA scale was established in the 1950's as a way to objectively compare and evaluate stones. This was important because prior to that, there was no standard way to compare one stone against another. The GIA scale goes from included at the bottom, meaning it has a lot of inclusions or blemishes, to internally flawless at the top. Internally flawless means that under magnification of 10x, there are no inclusions or blemishes visible.

Loupes are essential for any jeweler when trying to determine the clarity of a gemstone. Internally flawless gems are very rare, making up less than 1% of all available diamonds on the market, and about 5% of colored gemstones depending on the species. Internally flawless gemstones also command a 35% premium over VVS quality, which is the next level down on the GIA clarity scale. The reason for this is because internally flawless gemstones are very difficult to source.

A lot of commercial jewelry chains do not offer internally flawless gemstones as an option because they cannot purchase them wholesale in large enough quantities to meet customer demand.  If you're interested in purchasing an internally flawless gemstone, it's best to find a smaller jeweler who prioritizes quality over quantity. Keep in mind that if your gemstone is over four carats, you will be able to see inclusions with the naked eye. This can take away from the beauty of the jewelry. Inclusions can be seen in natural sunlight making the jewelry look like it needs to be cleaned. Also, if you ever go to sell your jewelry again, internally flawless will fetch a higher price than the commercial standard gemstones.

What are your thoughts on internally flawless? Do you think it’s worth the extra premium price? Why were you never offered them in the mall? We know, it’s a lot to digest.  We hope we gave you the perfect amount of information to make you a savvy educated shopper. Best of luck when browsing for your new prized gem!